This was a compilation of small projects that needed to be done before larger progress could be achieved. We start this installment with the gauge cluster (original Clippercraft set) going into the now-faired controls console.

Cool, that’s a little achievement already today! How well are those fuel tanks going to fit, since we are in here and all…

A good friend down the lake gave me a portable toilet for the boat for free, as he had no use for it and it had never seen any use. The scary part is once again, I have built something strong, clean, and made it all one piece. But, alas, it needed to be hacked apart and made into a hatch to install something. Out comes the circular and dozuki saws. Marked out an approximation of size for the toilet to be easily removed, and went to town.

Not too shabby so far. The toilet isn’t going to sit in the V shaped space on its own, so it is time to put in a pad. Just made a little piece of square MDO from the sole fit in the bow resting on the forward frame, and blocked up the other end with some CVG fir 5/4″ stock. This made a level surface that I can screw cleats to in order to keep the pot where it belongs. Shall we see?

Test fit?

the cabin roof for the trunk cabin spent some quality time under heat, as I spent a solid 4 hours cutting a 60″ long, 4″ wide scarph joint on two panels, then glued it all up. This was time consuming to say the least, and a good reminder that I need a bigger plane and possibly a power planer someday.

Scarph time notwithstanding, at least it was a major step in the project. This will be the lid for the trunk, the dashboard, and the last major style line on the boat that isn’t visible in the construction phase. I didn’t get a photo of the process, but I certainly have a photo of the final product after a night of gluing under the warm lights.

There was a short period of nausea yesterday when I discovered my dimensions had somehow gone haywire. I included too much arc on the trunk cabin roof, cutting the main bulkhead higher than is necessary. It will be a fast draining boat, and the cabin roof will be stronger for the radius, but she won’t look like a standard ClipperCraft.

Note the height above a flat plane. This is very much a conic projection, but a bigger one than I’d hoped.

A landing pad for the honey bucket was also constructed from offcut 1/2″ MDO and some scrap CVG fir from the sole support modifications. This rests on the forward most frame and a glued in CVG wood block, making a sturdy base but keeping it removable for cleaning and maintenance.

If the paint is out, use it on whatever you can, right? Inside the seat boxes, there was no need to use high dollar paint that isn’t going to see the light of day, so I picked up some acrylic machine paint that I’ve tested a few times on cheap boats. It held up for exterior canoe applications for 3 years outside, so it should be a tolerable fit on the inside of a box.

Here we can see the dry fit cabin roof, with about 75% of the clamps necessary to hold it fair, as well as the new primer coats.

That gorgeous ribbon striped mahogany once again makes an appearance on a Clippercraft, and will be coated in a clear System 3 product that should give a clear, glossy coating without the repetitive hassles of varnishing. The paint has been cut in at roughly the waterline, but it was a guess at best.

The main project beow was to get the side decks completed as they are the last external surface that requires construction aside from the cabin windows and roof. It took several cuts to get the shape correct, but it finally worked out with some overlap on the outside edge. As you can see below, they are laid up of two layers. First the 3/8″ ply goes on to generate the shape and upper fair surface.

With these in place, the shape becomes more clear as to where the cabin roof will attach and how she will shed water. Note the way the cabin sides and the foredeck all work together as a single shape line on the boat.

Some rigging occurred inbetwixt other projects of the interior fit-out, such as these beautiful little hawse pipes in the aft quarters to keep the decks clear of cleats and junk that might interfere with fishing.

The rod holders were a logical next step, since the hole saw was out. Look closely, you can see the 5 rod spread that was ironed out for our albacore trolling season.

Using the G-flex product, the previous tank mishap was repaired with a solid 3psi air pressure test.

That ridiculous oval hatch that was utterly unusable from the factory got a refit as well. I swapped the hinges from the engine cover (replaced with much heavier duty units) up to the corners, split the panels along a bulkhead inside, and rehinged them with the salvaged ones from below. This gives the battery compartment the same setup as before, but allows the sides to be available when the engine cover is down. I’m sure others have done this mod, but I still feel like a pioneer.

A recommendation was made to find a set of oval windows instead of square ones to accentuate the cabin lines a bit better than the square ones. I thought that to be a quality idea, until I found that most opening oval port lights cost around $300 and up. Ouch! After weeks of looking, a bit of luck happened, and a boat on the west side of our state happened to not need a set of windows ordered for it. Quite a bit less cash was exchanged, and here they are.

The helm still needed a solid, clean, and self draining area for the throttle. Deliberate efforts that were both good and bad identified the best slope, angle and reach for the helm, and off to the races we went.

clippercraft throttle

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